Beyond the Hills: A Nature Lover's Guide to Unique Excursions around the Tuscan Maremma

Wayne Xuereb • 1 September 2025

Welcome to the Wild Heart of Tuscany

Historic stone watchtower on a green hill above turquoise bay, sandy beach, and distant mountains

Nestled on the gentle slopes just outside Grosseto, Agriturismo Lo Scalandrino is far more than a tranquil farm stay: it's a gateway to the authentic, untamed, and diversely beautiful Tuscan Maremma. While many travellers envision the Chianti hills or Florence's Renaissance treasures, the Maremma region invites guests to discover another soul of Tuscany—a soulful landscape where wild nature, ancient civilizations, and passionate traditions have shaped centuries of rural life.


These words intend to offer a new perspective for nature lovers and adventure seekers: a journey into the most captivating outdoor experiences, blending ancient forests, secret coves, wild rivers, and living history. Let's explore how guests at Lo Scalandrino can craft a truly immersive itinerary—beyond just seeing the landscape but becoming part of its living, changing story.


The Soul of Maremma


Lo Scalandrino sits in the heart of the Maremma,  a region defined by contrasts—a tapestry of dramatic coastline, peaceful wetlands, rolling olive groves, and shadowy woodlands. Here, nature has prevailed where elsewhere human intervention has tamed or transformed the land. The Maremma is sparsely populated, with a proud agricultural heart; its towns are small, its roads quiet, and its experiences uncommercial.


At Lo Scalandrino itself, nature is never far away. The property prides itself on sustainability and rural wellness, ensuring guests enjoy not only organic produce and fine olive oil but clean air, birdsong, and wide-open skies. From your window or terrace, hills roll into the distance, dotted with olive trees, golden fields, views of the Parco Naturale della Maremma and the occasional glimpse of wild deer—a scene unchanged for generations.


Wild Trails and Park Adventures: Parco Naturale della Maremma


Arguably the crown jewel of local natural attractions, the Parco Naturale della Maremma stretches from Principina a Mare south to Talamone. Renowned for its pristine coastline, alluvial wetlands, and the wild, densely forested Uccellina mountains, the park is an ecological mosaic home to foxes, porcupines, deer, wild boar, and nearly 300 bird species including flamingos and peregrine falcons.


Hiking and Nature Walks


Within the park, nine primary trails serve all abilities and tastes, each a tapestry of changing scenery:


  • Granducale dell'Uccellina Pine Forest - Caprarecce Cave: A relatively gentle 9-kilometre loop beginning at the Marina di Alberese car park, winds through fragrant pine woodland, follows quiet canals, passes caves, and offers panoramic beach returns.


  • Poggio alle Querce - Cala di Forno: For a full immersion, embark on this 14-kilometre trek through Mediterranean scrub and oak forest. The rewarding highlight is arriving at Cala di Forno—a protected sandy cove, often with deer or foxes padding nearby.


  • Talamone - Poggio Tondo loop: This trail ascends to rocky viewpoints above Talamone before looping back along the seashore, merging Tuscan sea breezes with scents of wild rosemary and garrigue.

 

All these trails offer not only scenic beauty, but glimpses into the landscape that has shaped Maremma's people—untouched woods, medieval towers, ancient farmsteads, and meadows where butteri, Tuscan cowboys, still ride.


Guided Excursions and Seasonal Events


A walk in Parco della Maremma becomes even richer with local guides or during seasonal events. September offers a calendar brimming with guided hikes, sunset aperitifs, full moon paddles on the Ombrone River, and even night time wildlife observation walks —experiences specially designed to deepen your connection with the land and its stories. Advance booking is typically necessary, especially during peak months.


For those who desire a gentle stroll rather than strenuous hiking, trails such as "La Pineta Granducale dell'Uccellina" are effortlessly accessible and suitable for families or those wishing to combine nature with leisure.


Wild Swimming: Rivers, Waterfalls and Secret Pools


Beyond the sea, the Maremma offers thrill-seekers something unforgettable: wild swimming in natural rivers and pools. The Farma River, flowing between Grosseto and Siena, is crowned by its stretch known as Canaloni del Farma—a hidden Eden of rock pools, crystalline waterfalls, and emerald waters.


Adventurous guests can hike to these secluded spots, swim under shady trees, and picnic in absolute peace. The valley is lush and rarely crowded, often described as one of Tuscany's best-kept secrets for wild water adventures. Practical tips: wear sturdy shoes for the rocky approach and bring your own provisions (there are no refreshment stands), but abundant rewards await those happy to "lose" themselves in nature.


Real-Life Encounters: Wildlife and Birdwatching


For true eco-tourists, the nearby Burano Lake Nature Reserve is a gem: Italy's first WWF-managed reserve, it's a haven for bird enthusiasts and mindful explorers. Here, flamingos, herons, ospreys, and many migratory species can be observed from watchtowers along cleverly designed trails. Bring binoculars and a sense of quiet wonder; you'll be rewarded, especially at sunrise and sunset, with sights unique to this part of Italy.


Lo Scalandrino's own olive groves and fields also attract birds and the occasional shy mammal. On quiet mornings, the low whistle of bee-eaters or  the scurry of field hares across the meadow are common delights.


Hidden Beaches: Cala di Forno and the Wild Coast


Everyone knows of the famous beaches like Castiglione della Pescaia or Marina di Grosseto, but true serenity and unspoiled beauty await at lesser-known Cala di Forno. Hailed as "one of the most atypical beaches in Tuscany," Cala di Forno sits in the deep south of the Maremma park, accessible only by a moderately challenging, though well-marked, hiking trail—about 9 kilometres each way, through dense Mediterranean vegetation and rolling dunes.


No beach clubs, no bars—just a long swathe of silvery sand, high dunes, wildflowers, and frequent visits from local wildlife. Here it's not uncommon for a fox or deer to pass by unconcerned as you sunbathe or swim. Bring water, food, and shading: as an integral preserve, the environment is exceptionally well-protected.


For the less intrepid, Marina di Alberese at the northern end of the park offers easier access while retaining wild charm, backed by thick pines and offering sweeping views of the Argentario promontory.


Day Trips: Mountains, Volcanoes, and Timeless Towns


While much can be seen on foot and by bike from Lo Scalandrino, a short drive opens further horizons.


Monte Amiata


Dominating southern Tuscany, Monte Amiata is an ancient, forested volcano beloved for hiking in the summer and even skiing in winter. The beech and chestnut woods, cool and dappled, provide the perfect escape from warmer valleys. Trails lead to ancient sanctuaries and panoramic summits crowned by an enormous steel cross, with plenty of rustic restaurants and mountain churches to explore along the way.


Massa Marittima and the Metalliferous Hills


Massa Marittima, often overlooked by mass tourists, boasts one of Tuscany's most splendid cathedrals, quirky civic art (don't miss the eccentric 13th-century Fountain of Abundance fresco), and a beautifully preserved medieval centre ideal for a meandering day out. The town is also the gateway to hilly cycling routes and Etruscan mining sites—another link between Maremma's natural and historical richness.


Ecotourism and Responsible Travel


Lo Scalandrino, like many forward-thinking agriturismi, bases its philosophy on sustainability and environmental respect—a necessity in a region as precious yet fragile as the Maremma. Guests are encouraged to reduce waste, support local producers, and choose eco-friendly activities such as cycling, e-bike tours, or horseback rides.


The emphasis on "leaving only footprints" is not mere marketing: Parco della Maremma and many reserves strictly limit visitor numbers, especially during sensitive seasons, to protect wildlife and habitats. By booking guided tours or joining community initiatives (such as beach clean-ups and biodiversity workshops), visitors directly contribute to conservation and the future of these landscapes.


Becoming a Part of the Landscape


A stay at Lo Scalandrino is an invitation: not just to look at the Maremma's wild beauty, but to step in and be changed by it. Whether you're standing on a deserted beach, watching wild horses in a marsh dawn, cycling through olive groves, or swimming in a forested river pool, you are sharing in the continuum of lives that have moved through this region for millenia.


Nature here is not a backdrop, It's the main act, and you're invited on stage.


Photo credits:

  1. "View of Parco Naturale della Maremma from Lo Scalandrino" (Fotokx by Kurt Xuereb)
  2. "Cala di Forno" (landscapewalkingtours.com)


 


Agritourism in Maremma, Slow Travel Italian countryside, Rural Tuscany retreat, Maremma hiking trails, Scenic countryside walks, Outdoor activities Grosseto, Offbeat Tuscany travel, Nature-focused travel guide, Hidden gems Maremma

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